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From: email@example.com (Rob Paisley)
Subject: Re: Higher loads on triac light dimmer ???
Date: 19 Sep 2002 11:02:51 -0700
NNTP-Posting-Date: 19 Sep 2002 18:02:51 GMT
"CS" wrote in message news:...
> Hi, I'm moving a coffee machine from the USA 110V to Australia 220V which
> has a heating element rated at 1300W.
> Rather than using a bulky & expensive step down transformer, I would prefer
> to use a standard thyristor light dimmer to control the heating element
> since it is just a resistive load, but every light dimmer I've seen is
> limited to about 600W.
> Is it possible to modify something to get this to work, like add a heatsink
> to the 600W light dimmer ??
And the best suggestions are:
1- Buy an new machine.
2- Replace the element with one rated for 220 Volts.
Great idea but probably not be possible.
3- Use an autotransformer.
Best after #2 and probably most practical.
4- Place a 1300 Watt clothes iron in series with the load.
Idea #4 has some merit but it would be better if 1300 watts of
resistive lighting was placed in series with the coffee machine. Keep
in mind that these would need to be 220 Volt lamps running at 1/2
voltage for this solution. (If you don't mind basking in a 1300 watt
warm glow while you wait for a cup of mud.)
Seeing as how you are attached to this machine you could also by a
second machine and run them in series. Just kidding.
There are some practical considerations with this problem and the
members of this news group would need to know more about the
particular coffee machine's actual electrics in order to give credible
answers to this problem.
The greatest of these considerations is: What type of brewing
controls does this machine have, is it an electronic control or a
If the machine has anything except a simple bimetal thermostat that
controls the entire load you can forget about idea #4 and anything
that involves lamp dimmers, stove element controllers, diodes or
"something clever electronically". Not that these are practical
If electronic control is used idea #2 would require that the
controls be adapted or replaced along with the element. A highly
unlikely event unless the Australians have the exact same machine
ratted for 220 Volts In which case just buy one of theirs.
The diode in the line method proposed will fail no matter how many
watts is evolved because the even though the current is applied for
only 1/2 of the cycle at 220 volts it will still be twice what the
heating element is designed for and will blow the internal fuse or
destroy the element.
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