The Cyber-Spy.Com Usenet Archive Feeds Directly
From The Open And Publicly Available Newsgroup
This Group And Thousands Of Others Are Available
On Most IS NNTP News Servers On Port 119.
Cyber-Spy.Com Is NOT Responsible For Any Topic,
Opinions Or Content Posted To This Or Any Other
Newsgroup. This Web Archive Of The Newsgroup And
Posts Are For Informational Purposes Only.
From: email@example.com (N. Thornton)
Subject: Re: old thread Re: DIY Soldering iron tips
Date: 28 Oct 2002 13:46:04 -0800
NNTP-Posting-Date: 28 Oct 2002 21:46:04 GMT
firstname.lastname@example.org (bogax) wrote in message news:<email@example.com>...
> OK, I know I'm late.
> (came across this while looking for John Popelish' original description
> of his technique for etching PCBs by floating on FeCl, to refer a friend
> to. Thanks John :)
> I have made my own soldering iron tips or refurbished those paramagneticaly
> heat controlled Weller tips (which seem to me to be getting harder and harder
> to find)
> I always used nickel plating over the copper.
> A little nickel chloride in hydrochloric acid for plating solution,
> and a lab supply with the current limit set for a 100-200ma
> I believe nickel chloride is rather hideously poisonous.
> And by the by, it's easy enough to remove the little bit of paramagnetic
> alloy (or what ever it's called) from those Weller tips and attach it to
> a similar tip that doesn't have it (but is probably easier to find)
> >ozi wrote:
> >> G'day,
> >> I have a lathe an all different types of metal and was considering the
> >> possibility of making my own 'custom' soldering iron tips. Can anyone
> >> tell me if they're made of a special type of metal or if they're plated
> >> with anything.
> >> I was going to use stainless steel.
> >I think you will have trouble getting the solder to wet stainless
> >(which is stainless because it coats itself with a protective oxide
> >layer), though if you use a very active acid flux, you might get it
> >coated. But never use acid flux for electronic soldering after the tip
> >is tinned. It is strictly for plumbing use.
> >Cheap bits are pure copper, or high copper alloys, but copper wets
> >with solder so well because it dissolves in it. Pure iron (low alloy)
> >is only very slightly soluble in solder, so it is consumed many times
> >slower than copper, but is a poorer conductor of heat (and stainless
> >is worse than iron). So the best bits are pure copper inside, for
> >heat transfer, with a pure iron plating for long life. Remember that
> >any iron surface that is to be wet with solder must be fluxed before
> >heating and tinned immediately upon heating to get it covered with a
> >protective layer of solder before it oxidizes or solder will roll off
> >it like water off a duck.
> >John Popelish
I saw some soldering irons once that used a 4" nail with its head cut
off as the bit. They seemed to work OK, but the bit wasn't removable.
A novel approach :)
Iron plated copper is the norm, with plain copper for the cheapo ones.
Go Back To The Cyber-Spy.Com
Usenet Web Archive Index Of
The sci.electronics.design Newsgroup