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From: "Craig Hart"
Subject: Re: old thread Re: DIY Soldering iron tips
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 01:47:39 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 12:47:39 EST
Organization: BigPond Internet Services (http://www.bigpond.net.au)
aren't tin cans nickel plated? what about old keys? surely there are some
good sources of nickel for plating out there???????????????????
"N. Thornton" wrote in message
> firstname.lastname@example.org (bogax) wrote in message
> > OK, I know I'm late.
> > (came across this while looking for John Popelish' original description
> > of his technique for etching PCBs by floating on FeCl, to refer a friend
> > to. Thanks John :)
> > I have made my own soldering iron tips or refurbished those
> > heat controlled Weller tips (which seem to me to be getting harder and
> > to find)
> > I always used nickel plating over the copper.
> > A little nickel chloride in hydrochloric acid for plating solution,
> > and a lab supply with the current limit set for a 100-200ma
> > Caveat:
> > I believe nickel chloride is rather hideously poisonous.
> > http://physchem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/NI/nickel_II_chloride.html
> > And by the by, it's easy enough to remove the little bit of paramagnetic
> > alloy (or what ever it's called) from those Weller tips and attach it to
> > a similar tip that doesn't have it (but is probably easier to find)
> > >ozi wrote:
> > >>
> > >> G'day,
> > >> I have a lathe an all different types of metal and was considering
> > >> possibility of making my own 'custom' soldering iron tips. Can anyone
> > >> tell me if they're made of a special type of metal or if they're
> > >> with anything.
> > >> I was going to use stainless steel.
> > >>
> > >I think you will have trouble getting the solder to wet stainless
> > >(which is stainless because it coats itself with a protective oxide
> > >layer), though if you use a very active acid flux, you might get it
> > >coated. But never use acid flux for electronic soldering after the tip
> > >is tinned. It is strictly for plumbing use.
> > >
> > >Cheap bits are pure copper, or high copper alloys, but copper wets
> > >with solder so well because it dissolves in it. Pure iron (low alloy)
> > >is only very slightly soluble in solder, so it is consumed many times
> > >slower than copper, but is a poorer conductor of heat (and stainless
> > >is worse than iron). So the best bits are pure copper inside, for
> > >heat transfer, with a pure iron plating for long life. Remember that
> > >any iron surface that is to be wet with solder must be fluxed before
> > >heating and tinned immediately upon heating to get it covered with a
> > >protective layer of solder before it oxidizes or solder will roll off
> > >it like water off a duck.
> > >
> > >--
> > >John Popelish
> > Bogax
> I saw some soldering irons once that used a 4" nail with its head cut
> off as the bit. They seemed to work OK, but the bit wasn't removable.
> A novel approach :)
> Iron plated copper is the norm, with plain copper for the cheapo ones.
> Regards, NT
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