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Subject: Re: old thread Re: DIY Soldering iron tips
Organization: The Armory
X-Newsreader: trn 4.0-test69 (20 September 1998)
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Richard Steven Walz)
Date: 29 Oct 2002 07:31:27 GMT
In article ,
N. Thornton wrote:
>email@example.com (bogax) wrote in message
>> OK, I know I'm late.
>> (came across this while looking for John Popelish' original description
>> of his technique for etching PCBs by floating on FeCl, to refer a friend
>> to. Thanks John :)
>> I have made my own soldering iron tips or refurbished those paramagneticaly
>> heat controlled Weller tips (which seem to me to be getting harder and harder
>> to find)
>> I always used nickel plating over the copper.
>> A little nickel chloride in hydrochloric acid for plating solution,
>> and a lab supply with the current limit set for a 100-200ma
>> I believe nickel chloride is rather hideously poisonous.
>> And by the by, it's easy enough to remove the little bit of paramagnetic
>> alloy (or what ever it's called) from those Weller tips and attach it to
>> a similar tip that doesn't have it (but is probably easier to find)
>> >ozi wrote:
>> >> G'day,
>> >> I have a lathe an all different types of metal and was considering the
>> >> possibility of making my own 'custom' soldering iron tips. Can anyone
>> >> tell me if they're made of a special type of metal or if they're plated
>> >> with anything.
>> >> I was going to use stainless steel.
>> >I think you will have trouble getting the solder to wet stainless
>> >(which is stainless because it coats itself with a protective oxide
>> >layer), though if you use a very active acid flux, you might get it
>> >coated. But never use acid flux for electronic soldering after the tip
>> >is tinned. It is strictly for plumbing use.
>> >Cheap bits are pure copper, or high copper alloys, but copper wets
>> >with solder so well because it dissolves in it. Pure iron (low alloy)
>> >is only very slightly soluble in solder, so it is consumed many times
>> >slower than copper, but is a poorer conductor of heat (and stainless
>> >is worse than iron). So the best bits are pure copper inside, for
>> >heat transfer, with a pure iron plating for long life. Remember that
>> >any iron surface that is to be wet with solder must be fluxed before
>> >heating and tinned immediately upon heating to get it covered with a
>> >protective layer of solder before it oxidizes or solder will roll off
>> >it like water off a duck.
>> >John Popelish
>I saw some soldering irons once that used a 4" nail with its head cut
>off as the bit. They seemed to work OK, but the bit wasn't removable.
>A novel approach :)
>Iron plated copper is the norm, with plain copper for the cheapo ones.
The iron coating is what makes a really good soldering iron tip last for
ever and stay wetted, like the Weller tips.
Hmmm, I wonder if you can plate or re-plate the copper ones with iron
using a DC supply a nail and ferric chloride in water that we keep
around to etch PCB's???
Might work! You can plate a nail with copper using copper chloride!? Just
turn the battery around and change the electrolyte!!!!
-Steve Walz firstname.lastname@example.org ftp://ftp.armory.com/pub/user/rstevew
Electronics Site!! 1000's of Files and Dirs!! With Schematics Galore!!
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