From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Gregory L. Hansen)
Subject: Re: Camera Flashes
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:36:34 +0000 (UTC)
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:36:34 +0000 (UTC)
X-Newsreader: trn 4.0-test62 (21 February 1998)
In article ,
Dave Fenner wrote:
>"Gregory L. Hansen" wrote in
>| In article <email@example.com>,
>| John Muchow wrote:
>| >>>>Well, all the camera will see is a nine volt battery feeding
>the gates of
>| >>>>some FETS.
>|| The flash really is triggered by shorting the PC cable, right? I
>| it by shorting the connector, and it works fine when the PC cable
>is in my
>| camera, but if I manually short the end of the cable nothing
>| really don't know why.
>I think this may be why. Some sophisticated camera/flash systems
>curtail the flash when enough light from the subject has returned to
>the exposure sensor *in the camera*. Since there is only one wire,
>this 'enough' signal must be sent to the flash unit on this same
>wire, and the only way that can be done is for the camera to itself
>close the circuit when film is cooked. So if you short the leads
>the connection remain you are telling the flash to switch on for
>zero time! You could possibly try a fleeting brush of the wires to
>check this out.
>BTW I still think best and cheapest way to solve your problem is
>slave triggers. Knock some up for pennies each.
I'm looking for some range for outdoor use. Flashes lined up facing the
same direction, all apertures ahead of all slave optics... The slave
needs a pretty strong reflection to fire. If the subject is too far away,
it just won't. I was playing with that last night, and the slave often
"A nice adaptation of conditions will make almost any hypothesis agree
with the phenomena. This will please the imagination but does not advance
our knowledge." -- J. Black, 1803.