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From: email@example.com (Nico Coesel)
Subject: Re: Making 2 Layer PCB's
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 17:36:44 GMT
References: <6nMV9.26186$jM5.firstname.lastname@example.org> <3E27A064.email@example.com>
NNTP-Posting-Date: 18 Jan 2003 17:36:16 GMT
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Tom Woodrow wrote:
>Made em at home, made em at work. Used kepro pre-reststed copper clad
>FR4 (double sided) laminate, a circuline forescent light for exposure,
>and a ceramic bowl crock pot for etching.
>Cleaned the resist off after etching with a freon degreaser. It worked
>but it was an environmental nightmare.
>Layout the board so that components can soldered on both sides of the
>board whet a feedthru is necessary.
>Use accessable feedthru pads where you can solder a jumper wire from one
>side to the other (use this instead of a plated thru hole)
>If you need the place a feedthru jumper under a component, solder the
>feedthru jumper in BEFORE you install the component.
I mostly try to use components or sockets with turned pins to go from
top to bottom.
>As for allignment top to bottom when etching, place unsed pads at
>opposite corners (or on all four corners if you like) of your layout.
>Drill these holes BFFORE you expose the double sided copper laminate.
>Allign your film on one side then drill the corner holes, then expose
>that side. To expose the second side allign your film on the backside
I've used that method, but found that using an L shaped piece of PCB
result in much better aligned PCB's. Just stick both films aligned to
the L shaped PCB. Put the PCB in the middle, expose it, flip it over,
expose it again and you're ready to develop it. Developing a double
sided PCB is another problem. I use small PVC standoffs/clips which
prevent scratching the photo resist layer when the tray is rocked.
Reply to nico@nctdevpuntnl (punt=.)
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